Fall-Winter 2018/2019 Ready-to-Wear
Zuhair Murad
October 01, 2018
This season harmoniously merges epochs and ideals. The Edwardian woman introduced in the Pre-Fall 208 collection explores Seventies codes, drawing inspiration from Anita Pallenberg’s personal style.
Victorian detailing and ornamental trimmings adorn folk fur coats; embroideries inspired by the Belle Époque embellish jumpsuits, and miniskirts are lined with sequins.
Balkan and Eastern European folklore – a UNESCO protected tradition— runs through the collection like a golden thread. Weaves inspired by Moldavian tapestries illuminate coats and capes; twisted floral patterns envelopes A-line skirts.
Details are luxurious and tone on tone: backless dresses allow for the wearer’s skin to shine through the embroided blossoming, and the hemlines are enhanced with ostrich feathers. The latter also make for fluffy jackets, worn cropped or oversized and belted.
The fusion between organic and architectural touches, rigor and romance, also appear in the juxtaposition of tailored menswear classics with poetic, airy notes: muslin shirts with a pussy bow, sharp pleated trousers, bolero or suit jackets are reworked with fringes, sequins or worn with soft knitwear.
As for the color palette, black, silver, crimson red, grey-blue, burgundy, ivory, its vividness celebrates the 50th anniversary of May 68 – as does the collection, intended to celebrate all the women who will wear it, and make its hybridity a sign of openness to the world.
